Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool

I got this tool on a flash sale and saved a little over 10 dollars. I bought it because it makes bubble flares not double flares for my Mercedes. Haven't had to use it yet but I will be replacing my driver side rear brake line and cutting it somewhere down the middle. I know this tool should Make the flare on the 3/16 line easily, hopefully it will do the same on Mercedes steel line. When I get everything I need for the job and finally get it done I will edit this post.

They work terrific,throw away the old c clamp type flaring tool,very compact for under the vehicle use

This tool is worth it's weight in gold. It makes perfect double flares in steel and copper-nickel. It is compact and you can easily use it underneath the car in tight spots. I was able to cut and flare the old steel pipe in place and connect it to new copper-nickel. My old double flare tool looked like a single flare tool with some dies for double flaring and made lousy double flares in copper and broke when I tried to double flare a steel brake line.

Works great. This will double flare stainless steel. This is why I bought it. It is not advertised this way, but it does. It would benefit from a longer handle, but did the job and then some. I would recommend this to anybody.

This kit is complete, well-designed, and made my camper disc brake conversion far more manageable. The instructions are clear, and the included tube straightener works well, especially for shorter runs.A couple of things to note:• Don’t flare both ends before you straighten. if using a pre-made length of line, I had to disassemble and reassemble the straightener directly on the line to get it to work — doable, but definitely fiddly with all the small screws and alignment steps.• The flaring tool is easy to use, but I consistently ended up with a very small burr on the end of my double flares. I tried every technique I could find and even prepped the tubing meticulously. Whether it’s tool tolerance or user technique is unclear, but that burr was a recurring issue.Fortunately, I was able to clean up the flare ends with fine sandpaper, and all the connections have held tight with no leaks.Despite these minor drawbacks, this is a highly functional kit, and I would still recommend it — just be prepared for a little extra effort in a few spots.

Love this tool, makes brake work a breeze. Much better than the other methods.

Perfect tool for flaring brake line fittings, there are different sizes so make sure you order the correct tool for the size line

This review is for the Titan 3/16 tube flaring toolJust got the tool and had to see how well it worked on my favorite automotive bake tubing, copper clad steel/nickel.First to spoil the bottom line... It works!The quality of the parts looks very good. No crappy looking threads and the main clamp looks very high quality cast or forged. The female threads that pull the die in is not split but solid one piece design that you will not see in the other hand held flaring tools.I tested it a dozen times prepping the tube different ways and doing a double flare and a bubble flare. First I made a double flare with the end of the tube cut with a tubing cutter but did not file or deburr. It looks great. Then I tried it after filing the end flat and deburring the I.D. Looked even better. Finally I made a double flare and a bubble flare after just deburring the I.D. They look perfect. Then I inspected all parts of the tool for wear. The included photos show no wear at all other than a small amount of the black oxide on the forming does worn off. I do have to note that the bubble flares this tool makes has a tapered back. ISO/metric bubble flares usually have a flat back. I have used tapered back bubble flares to replace ISO bubbles and had no leakage. When you tighten the fitting you will feel the flare reform to the fitting as give in your wrench. When it is done reforming the nut will feel solid.A couple of tips from years of experience making flares.* Always lube all threads of the tool and the ends of the forming dies. They supply you with a small container of what appears to be chassis lube or wheel bearing grease. I find that any heavy oil or grease works. Without lube your flares will not be good and your tool will wear quickly.* Use a box ratchet on the die tool and to clamp the tube. Because you have to hold on to the handle of the tool and the wrench it is easier to use short strokes on the ratchet wrench.*This tool does not come with a case so because only one piece of the tool was left unattached I drilled out the hole at the end of the plastic handle and inserted the positioning plug into that hole. Now I can throw the tool in my brake tool drawer without looking for any extra loose parts.Pictures are as follows:Here is the tool opened up. They never show this in their ads.Next is the condition of the tube prior to flaring.Next, this is what the side profile looks like.Next is a bubble flare. Note that the back side is tapered. An ISO 4.75 bubble flare is actually flat on the back side. Should still work okay on ISO/metric fittings.Next is a side profile of the bubble flare.Next two show the dies after making a dozen flares on copper clad nickel steel brake tubing.The next three are photos of the flares I made. From left to right: double with no prep on a tube end cut with a tubing cutter; double after filing and inside deburr; double after just inside deburr(best); bubble flare after inside deburr of tube end.Last photo shows how I stored the positioning plug.